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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.